Since I was little I imagined climbing on ridge lines, I daydreamed about what it would be like on that juxtaposition in the sky, between land and space - It was just so 'there' and unavoidable. Some of my favorite climbing since then has taken place in the theater of ridges and I have grown very found of this style of climbing. It takes a long long time for a ridge climb to end, measured in miles and kilometers instead of feet or meters, so perfect in many ways.
It was 1997 I believe when I first starting reading about Peter Crofts exploits in the Sierra's of California. I don't recall the specifics of that particular piece but '70 pitch ridges', 'flawless mountain granite' and 'almost too-good weather' rang home. Something about it resonated in me and a few years later I started seeking out the great ridge climbs of the Rockies and Selkirks. Travelling lightly and forever, I felt like Peter Pan, flying for the first time - the possibilities for adventure expanded. Always in the back of my mind loomed the ginormity of the 'grand course' ridge, the king; The Evolution Traverse in the Sierra backcountry.
Julian and I were going through the options for a post Outdoor Retailer trip and with a bit of hesitation I suggested it. I knew we could give it a solid try and with a bit of luck, maybe pull the damn thing off in a day. Time to pull out the pickle...
Sierra alpine start = Magic.
Early on, lower Mendel.
With Huxley on the far right, the end of the traverse and 7 miles away.
Lots of easy 5th class.
We are on the Evolution!
Moving quickly through the great knobs.
Between Mendel and Darwin. Awesome.
Darwin summit block.
After reaching about the halfway mark, we looked at each other and knew we needed to go down but neither of us wanted to say anything. It was getting late in the day, there was literally miles of 5th class ahead and we were slowing down. The rope was coming out more and more, our bodies racked from the week of OR, the logistics of the trip and being at altitude; everything was taking its toll. We started rapping and reached the talus just as the first fat drops started falling, 2 hours of intense thunderstorms surprised us but somehow made us feel better. We arrived back at the wet tent, made some curry and passed out.
Amazing.
We will be back...
Many thanks to Julian for his energy, enthusiasm and good nature!
The ritual of signing the Yamnuska register and seeing what your friends have been doing pre-facebook.
On the approach to Yam with Rob, we climbed the route 'Another Fat Bastard', a mixed bolted gear route going at 5.10c. Another controversial route of this style squeezed in between classic traditional lines on the bastion of the ethic. Still a great day out with a good friend.
The first pitch of AFB
Rob getting ready to go in the off width section.
Jason and I ventured up 'the fold' in K country - The line takes the obvious rib in the center of the photo here. An amazing position for sure, luckily we had our Iphones to capture the moment.
On the last pitch.
Summit!
Trunk beers.
